Frankford Avenue just got a serious brown liquor upgrade. Stephen Starr partnered with NYC’s Joe Carroll to open Fette Sau, a replica of Carroll’s successful BBQ joint in Williamsburg (it’s right next door to Starr beer garden Frankford Hall). Just like the Brooklyn original, the Philly Fette Sau will serve an impressive assortment of bourbons, whiskeys and ryes.

Past the barbed wire fence entrance, a brick walkway leads to a rustic facade, and inside to a large room filled with communal picnic tables. Food — half a dozen rotating smoked meats and sides — is served at a walk-up counter by the pound. After you’ve got your eats, or if you’re just stopping in for a drink, you order your own libations too.

A zinc bar that Carroll found in the depths of the Starr Restaurant storage space sits atop reclaimed barn wood, and offers 10 drafts by the pint, gallon or half gallon. The draft list features one cider (Jacks) and also three local beers brewed specially for Fette’s taps. These three (from Earth Bread & Brewery, Sly Fox and Dock Street Brewing Co.) aren’t quite ready yet, so the starting list is as you see it below.

We’re even more excited about the whiskey — these folks know their spirits. On the back of the drink list is a fascinating explanation of what differentiates a bourbon from a Tennessee whiskey, a corn or rye whiskey, a sour mash and a bonded whiskey. Did you know Jack Daniels isn’t bourbon because it’s filtered through charcoal prior to aging? Or that Canadian whiskey must be aged at least three years in a barrel no larger than 700 liters?

The spirits on offer include no less than 30 types of bourbon and a dozen ryes. Prices run from $6 (for George Dickle Tennesee whiskey) all the way up to $27, which brings Four Roses Single Barrel 2012 — this one’s at barrel strength so you’re getting more bang for those bucks than usual. Flights are also on the menu. Choose from a rye flight, a white whiskey flight and several others. Pair the sips with some smoked BBQ short ribs or broccoli rabe sausage and you’ll be sitting pretty.

Fette Sau Beer List

Sixpoint – Vienna Pale Ale (Custom brew, also served at Brooklyn outpost)
Earth Bread and Brewery – Dry Rub Amber Ale  (Custom brew) (SERVING FOREST AND MAINE SOLAIRE UNTIL READY)
Sly Fox –Swanky Lager  (Custom brew) (SERVING SLY FOX DUNKELWEISSE UNTIL READY)
Dock Street – PA Porter  (Custom brew) (SERVING DOCK ST RYE IPA UNTIL READY)
Jacks – Cider
Sly Fox –Pikeland Pils
Victory – HopDevil
Yards – Brawler
Troegs – IPA
Forest & Main – Solaire

1208 Frankford Ave.; 215-391-4888

Photos by Danya Henninger